Tuesday, June 10, 2008

Chitwan

We took a short weekend trip and we are finally settled in. However, before the bags are unpacked, a blog must be written. (My priorities are completely in order, as you can tell). In addition, I had to read all the blogs that I missed. I was so flattered to see that one of our friends featured us in their blog. Wow! It is like finding your name or picture in the newspaper, except way better! Therefore, I have to direct you there. Plus, it is a really cute blog with a great peek into small town eastern living. Here it is: Sushi and Pizza. Thanks again, Foleys!



We decided to take a weekend trip to Chitwan. It was our second attempt. Our first try resulted in us turning around after finding out there was a strike and people were burning buses. The drive wound us down steep, narrow mountains while trying to avoid colourfully decorated transport trucks along the way. There wasn’t much give on the road and a driver’s error of only a couple of feet could have had us toppling hundreds of meters to a rushing river.


Xavier and Asa completely unmoved by the danger of the ride.

Despite the danger, the drive was spectacular. The miles of waterfalls, rice fields, and terraced land was like a painting. The air was fresher and the natural beauty was awe inspiring. For about four hours we followed the long winding river nestled in the middle of the mountains. Then, all of a sudden, the mountains disappeared and we were in a dense jungle. The cool mountainous air disappeared and we soon became sticky and wet. We were greeted by black faced monkeys and we soon arrived at our resort.






Once we arrived at the resort we took a walk through the jungle with the kids. Our guide showed us leeches (which are abundant in Chitwan) and many signs of rhinos. He even showed us the kind of tree we need to climb in case we encounter one. Valuable information! In addition, we saw our first elephant of the trip. The kids were entranced.




We then dropped off the babies and the nannies at a crocodile infested river. They had to cross the river so they could get to the elephant breeding centre. While crossing the river, several grown elephants were following the canoe to bring food to the babies in the nursery.





Then, Axel, Heavah, Xavier and I made our way upstream so we could take a longer ride through the jungle in a dug-out canoe. I was a little worried about having a 4 and 5 year old on a canoe (especially Xavier-the boy with the wiggles) so I told them that all the flip flops (which were many) they saw in the river were from people who were eaten by crocodiles. I have never seen my children sit so still in all my life.







The ride was amazing. We were the only people on the entire river and we saw some spectacular wildlife. The children also knew they had to be quiet in order to not scare away any animals. The only noises we could hear were echoes of birds, monkeys, and elephants in the distance. We saw three kinds of kingfishers, who all had electric blue wings when they flew. We also saw three crocodiles (only the fish eating kind. There was also a kind of crocodile in the water called ‘man-eating crocodile’, but we didn’t get to see any) with their heads sticking above the water. However, the highlight was seeing the hornbill bird. It is unique to this area and it is becoming extinct. Many natives kill it for its beak, believing it has medicinal benefits. It was huge bird and it flew low enough that we could clearly see its hornbill sticking out. Even the guide said after working there for 20 years he had only seen a few. Axel took this picture while he was at the NY zoo last month. He said he always wanted to see one of these in the wild. His wish came true.



The ride ended where we dropped off the babies and we got to see the elephant nursery. This was where the local people breed and train the baby elephants for future work with the tourists. We bought cookies for them and one came right out of the pens to play with us. This one is only about two years old and we saw some as young at 20 days old. The babies were very cute.






When we returned to the resort we all collapsed because of the heat and humidity. Axel was exhausted and so were the kids. But, the guide asked if we wanted to go wash the elephants. We were all inclined not to go but we left the babies at home for a nap and went to the river. The kids and Axel were soooo happy they went! It was one of the highlights of the trip. The kids washed/swam/played with the elephants. They had a blast, and Axel even stayed up on the elephant longer than the trainer when the elephant tried to ‘buck’ them off. The kids were in love, and if it were possible I think they would have just stayed there all afternoon. Then we went home and I made sure the kids scrubbed down like they had just been exposed to radioactive waste (I have seen what those rivers look like upstream in Kathmandu...) and then napped.








That afternoon, the four of us got on our elephant and headed for the jungle to see what kind of wildlife we could see. What a surreal experience to be walking to the jungle in a line of about 10 elephants. It was so funny to see the elephants whack anything that came in their way. It didn’t matter what it was dogs, cows, or electrical wires. Those trunks have some serious force!



When we got into the jungle it was unbelieveable. It was a real jungle. The elephants divided up to look for the rhinos. Being higher than the ‘driver’ we got smacked with branches, sticks and spiderwebs but for the 2 and a half hours they were on the elephant, the kids didn’t complain for a second! They understood how extraordinary the experience was and the only thing Xavier kept saying was, “I can’t believe I am on an elephant!” Oddly the only complainer was Axel because he is terrified of spiders. So every 10 minutes or so I could hear him yelping and frantically trying to find where the spider from the web was on his body. I hate to admit it, but I laughed a bit.



Then the most magical thing happened. We came out of the dense forest to a grassy glen and there were six one horned rhinos eating grass and playing in the mud. I must admit I almost cried it was so beautiful. The kids were shocked too and we sat in silence just observing their every move. The rhinos weren’t at all afraid of the elephants and we got some great pictures. They looked so prehistoric and Xavier was amazed at how much they looked like a triceratops. I have seen them a hundred times in zoos, but for some reason seeing them in that glen was like seeing a rhino for the first time. It was amazing.














We then went looking for other wildlife. We saw two kinds of deer. A spotted one and a bigger one that was like an elk. Then we saw a jungle pig, which kind of just looked like a hairy pig living in the jungle, so I guess they named that one well. There were tons of trees dripping with orchids, most in bloom and lots of butterflies. Axel grabbed some kind of dendrobium from a tree just to say he collected one atop an elephant. And then we came home.







After we arrived back at the resort, we got to see the sun go down over the river. It was something Axel and I like to call a 'perfect moment in time'.





The only thing that would have made it more perfect is if we knew you were actually going to come visit us so we could do it all over again and have you in the pictures with us. Truly it was a time to remember!

Thursday, June 5, 2008

Hugin and Waiting for Munin

Here is one Jake should appreciate. The other day I was playing with my Alexandrine parrakeet. I got two three month old babies for about 30 bucks for the both. One of them is a good bird, the other is a crap. They are young so I could train the other one if I had time, but I don't. We named them Vishnu and Laxmi. Two Hindu married gods. It is kind of a joke because at this age I can't tell if they are female or male. I am hoping the good one who I have tamed enough to be held and scratched (pictured - Vishnu) is a male. They are prettier as they have the ring around their neck.

Vishnu


Anyways, so I was working in my bonsai/japanese garden (I'll write more about that later - I totally scored on three sweet bonsais!) with Heavah and all of the sudden three crows landed in our yard. Two of them were going to TOWN on the third smaller one. We watched kind of dumbfounded and finally I got up and chased off the two big ones. The little one flew to our fence and kind of hung there gasping for breath. I had Heavah run and get our butterfly net and VIOLA! I got a crow!

The funny thing was just three days earlier I was telling Terah how I always wanted to have one as they are very smart birds. Odin had two (ravens actually, but who is counting..) and they would fly down to Midgard everyday to report back to him on what was happening in the world. They were named Hugin (thought) and Munin (memory).

So here is Hugin



Here I am doing my best one-eyed Odin impression



And again



Well, you can't have too many pictures of a bald man with a crow on his shoulder...



He is taming down a bit. It is going to take a little while as he is wild, but hey, it is Nepal. Time is all I got.

The great part is my coworker who is my hook up for my bird addiction says he has baby crows up in his house he is going to try to get rid of and he might get me one. So perhaps Munin is coming sooner than expected... Then I will really know what goes on in the world.

Randy



The farm just keeps on growing. Not that 3 chickens, two parrots, one crow, and several pheasants (on order) was enough! We had to go and buy ourselves a goat. I must say at first, the thing scared me. "It's going to eat all my flowers", "It's gonna poop everywhere", "It's going to make noises at nighttime", and "It's going to be too hard on the kids when Axel tries to convince me to make it a nice meal for our family". But all these thoughts aside, the thing is too cute to send home. It has really taken a liking to Xavier and the guards. Every time we arrive home, one of the guards comes running to the gate. You can almost be sure you will see Randy running behind to greet our car.



So, for now, Randy can stay. I kind of like the guy and I just might give Axel less of a hard time when he tries to convince me to buy more. Of course, all on the condition that I don't have to eat it when it fattens up!

Wednesday, June 4, 2008

Petrol

What would happen if the government artificially lowered the price of gas?

Here is what I know, Nepal artificially lowers the gas prices because they know 90% of all Nepalis cannot afford the real price. The catch is this, because all the gas is driven in from India, there is only so much to go around. As a result, there is no gas to be found in all of Kathmandu. We have 'gas days' for our driver, which means when the gas is finally available,he will sit in a line, waiting for gas for the entire day. Other than the obvious problem of wasting gas to get gas, the other issue is the gas is rationed to only 20 litres per vehicle. So, as soon as you get it, you need it again.

Here is a common sign throughout Kathmandu:



Here is a line waiting to get gas:



We are lucky enough to have the company write a letter, on letterhead, that states we need more than the rationed amount. They give us just a little more. We are thankful nevertheless.

So, next time you complain that gas prices are too high, this might make you feel a bit better.

Tuesday, June 3, 2008

Garbage Can, Anyone?

Sorry, no post, we have had no power here for the past day or so. It seems that I just need to get used to it. I can't even count the number of times our power has gone out or we have had no water. The first few times it happened I asked our Nepali maid, "Is this normal?" That is when she sighed and said, "Ah yes, electricity/water is big problem in Nepal". Hummm....

Speaking of lack of necessities, we have been here for 3 weeks now and I have been unable to locate a kitchen garbage can. Today, I finally saw one while I was in the checkout line at the supermarket. I ran to grab it, and as I was assembling the lid to the can, two managers came running to me. "Madame, this is not for sale." Apparently, it was a 'special order' item for someone who was persistent enough to find a way of buying a trash can in this country. I then thought, brilliant, I will 'special order' one as well. That is when they said, "No more special order. Out of stock forever". So, back to square one.

What kind of country doesn't have any trash cans? Apparently, this one.




We just found out that our stuff is about to reach Calcutta. Who knew that one of the most anticipated items would be a kitchen garbage can.

Sunday, June 1, 2008

Orchids

I know, two blogs, maybe I am getting hooked. But I just wrote my dad for some help on keeping some orchids I collected alive and healthy so I figured rather than just writing him, I’d blog it…

I remember growing up hearing stories of my dad collecting orchids. He had three or four greenhouses at MSU full of orchids he either collected or acquired for the university. I’ll bet even to this day it is one of the best collections in the states.
I remember collecting with him on our trip to Mexico. I got one that my mom painted and it was always kind of cool to know I climbed the tree to get that orchid.

So finally I am in a place that has them and I started my collection. Last weekend we were going to Chitwan Park (it is in the jungle and you ride elephants around looking for one horned rhinos and tigers in the preserve). Unfortunately the morning we were going we were told they were striking in the city and burning buses so we decided to come home. On the 99 KM/three hour trip back I had the driver stop at every orchid I saw in a tree that looked accessible. Some of them were right out in the open on trees at eye level with the road, but in reality, they were about 90 meters in the air on a huge tree that was on the side of a cliff. I left those ones alone. So I had to not only find them but find the ones that wouldn’t kill me in front of my family if I fell down off the tree.

Most of them I got by myself, but here is a picture of our driver helping me get one.


Unfortunately I didn’t get many pictures of them in the trees, I will next time. But here they are after I got them back and into pots.


Aerides multiflora



Cymbidium simulans



Green Somethingans



Whothehellknowsans

So now I have at least 2 of the 140 different species of orchids from Nepal. I am looking forward to hunting down the other 138. There are some really spectacular ones that I am very much looking forward to getting. It is like hunting lizards and snakes in AZ or spearfishing in Dubai. The hunt is the fun part!

I am trying to get my dad out here so he can go out into the bush with me and show me how to get the far ones. Also how to keep them. I am sure he is cringing at seeing the dirt and pots I put them in. Hereis the only one I am pretty sure I did right:


Cymbidium simulans with my gardener.