Lovely Bones

A highlight for us while in Addis Ababa was visiting the National Museum of Ethiopia. Not only was it complete with several masks laced with human hair and crazy African mosaics, it also housed the oldest human remnants.

This is not the oldest human, but these monkey bones date back to 4.4 million years. A pretty impressive find, and it makes me wonder what stressed this little guy out. Did the bananas taste the same? Did he/she ever ponder global warming? Did he/she even ponder at all? So many questions....

Here is the famous 'Lucy' hominid. She dates back to 3.2 million years ago. There isn't much there to see, but this 3 foot nothing girl happened to exist during the pleistocene era (ie, giant, crazy mammal period). Did she frolic in the fields with the huge sloths? I don't know, but I guarantee she has some sweet stories to share.

The archaeological and paleoanthropological sections in the basement of the museum were humble, but so very impressive. Axel's favorite section was the mammal exhibit featuring all the Ice Age 2 characters--but this time not animated--instead, for reals. This is a mammoth bone.

It was a fascinating and incredible exhibit, and completely worth the stop. Lucy didn't disappoint because she made me visit a world in my mind that I rarely ever contemplate. Life is a blip, a mere sliver in time. If I ever worry about trial issues in my life I can always remember, 'Another 100 years, all new people.'

The Streets of Addis Ababa

Eid is the Muslim celebration after Ramadan. I am equally as excited about Eid as the local people in Qatar because I can eat, In public, without being arrested. It is something to celebrate for everyone.

Axel had a few days off work for Eid so we decided to make a quick trip to Ethiopia. In the '80s I was always so moved by the UNICEF 'Feed the World' campaign. Images of Ethiopia were imprinted in my brain and I always thought, I wish I could visit there and help. When we debated over where to go for our vacation, Ethiopia was my first choice. Isn't it everyones?

The first image we saw outside of our hotel window

What surprised me the most when I arrived was it was nothing like the images I saw on TV. In fact, there were signs of positive development within the country and the Ethiopian people seemed to be pleased with their government and the direction of Ethiopia as a whole. It is still very third world, but in most ways, it was much more developed than Nepal. It was especially fun to arrive during Eid and see all the Muslim women praying. Ethiopia is 85% Christian and 15% Muslim. You would have never known it while we were there though. It seemed there were Muslims everywhere. I was just happy to see colourful abayas. The black ones in Qatar start making my eyes spin after a while.

Strangely, most people did not want their photo to be taken. I have noticed that collectively some countries love to have their photos taken and other don't. Ethiopians are in the latter category. I have a million photos with hands over faces. Thank goodness for my photography skills and a good telephoto (Read: lack of respect for privacy).

The bubble gum boys are my favorite and I can never resist their offer. By the end of the trip I had a lifetime supply of rubber gum that loses flavor before you can say the word 'banana', but giving them 20 times the price they were asking did my heart some good.

\

Interesting facts about Addis Ababa:

* Only 3 million of the 82 million Ethiopian population live in Addis

* 14% of the homes have flush toilets and 70% have pit toilets

* Washington, DC and Johannesburg, South Africa are two of its sister cities.

I felt so at home in Addis. I am definitely a person who loves the third world. I honestly felt more comfortable there than I do in Doha. The smells, the people, the lively atmosphere, and the guarantee of the unexpected is my kind of place. It felt good to be back.

Atlantis Dubai

The month of August was probably the longest month of my life. Since the kids were stuck indoors all day long because of the debilitating heat, I had to find a solution to remedy their boredom and insanity. I can't really take the credit for the solution we had come up with because it was all Axel's idea. I think he knew the urgency for all of us to get a break. He insisted that I booked tickets for a week in Dubai at the Atlantis so the kids could have some waterpark fun and burn off a little steam.

Atlantis is a child's dream come true. There are bright lights, imaginative displays and water, water, water. It was the perfect thing for my shut-in children.

A highlight was when Xavier noticed a vehicle completely engulfed in flames. He must have saw it when it just started on fire because we practically saw the entire scene from start to finish. The response was slow and, to be honest, the firefighters did not seem like the swiftest crew around. They were more interested in watching it burn than putting the fire out.

We spent two days at the waterpark and the kids could not get enough. They especially loved the 'Leap of Faith', which scared the pants off me. I spent most of my time sitting at the bottom of the waterslide waiting for my kids to come down. As a result, I heard 'Wow, that was insane!' in about 15 different languages. Man, I love Dubai.

We probably could have spent another 4 days there, no problem. I have to say it was pretty nice to sit back and relax and have no agenda at all. Energy was burned, junk food was eaten, and inside jokes were made. All the makings of a fabulous trip!

Summer 2011 Days

This is me, doing one of the worst summer activities ever: scraping melted crayon from the van seat.

Shamefully, for the second time.

I would love to lie to you and tell you that this summer was just a delightful 3 months of my life. It wasn't. In fact, it sucked. The month interlude of our trip to Paris, US and Canada was lovely, but the month preceding it and the month after stunk. I mean a big, nasty, pile of poop stunk.

For those of you who think my life of traveling is absolutely glamourous, you would be right; but only partially. Those 2 mid-summer months are excruciatingly difficult and I definitely pay the price for all the fun I have during the other 10 months of my life.

Summers in Doha require the most strategic skills I possess. I cannot be a lazy mom during that time. Every minute, it seems, I am a party planner. It is plain exhausting. I attempt to pull all the stops and run forward with my eyes closed.

You see, the weather in Doha is consistently over 130 degrees in midsummer. No child may exit the home without an adult, nor would he/she want to. The smack of heat is debilitating and sucks every ounce of energy you might have within your body. My kids are locked indoors for most of the day. Do you know how much destruction 4 bored children can make on one 4000 square foot home? A lot. It is amazing. Apocalypse style.

The month of June was bearable. I took the kids out to malls and paid hefty prices for fun. Yes, I did spend over $200 daily for my children's entertainment. Gondolania, for example, is a theme park in the Villagio mall. One ride (approximately 2 minutes in length) is $7. That is for one child. So, for 4 children to be entertained for 1o minutes it can cost approx. $140. But whose counting? Trust me, I didn't after a while. It was almost worth the price at times, and if I could chat up the Nepali operator of the thrill ride, we often got 2 or 3 rides free. For me, Nepal keeps on giving.

August was a lot tricker. Not only was it summer, but it was also Ramadan. Ramadan is a lovely cultural event that typically results in a backward schedule. I would say 70% of the people here (that is, the 70% of the 20% of people that actually stay in Qatar during the summer months) live by a backwards schedule. Because they are fasting, they sleep in the day and play at night. This affects everything that happens in Doha. All stores are closed, no food nor drink can be seen, and the streets are desolate. There were no friends in the neighborhood and no expensive theme parks to play in. A.b.s.o.l.u.t.e.l.y. nothing to do.

It was 3 weeks of constant work on my part to keep my 4 little ones alive, well and happy.

These are things I did:

1. Implemented homeschool - To avoid excessive screen time no child was allowed to watch TV unless he/she read a book, wrote in a journal, taught another child something, did their chores, or played an instrument. Luckily, they were not overly enthusiastic about all the hurdles, which ultimately, caused them to be slow in their productivity. This was brilliant because it meant they usually had a lot less time to play video games or watch TV by the end of the day.

2. Swam - A LOT. It was the only activity that required little effort to our heat exhausted bodies. Every single day we swam until the kids begged me to go home. Btw- swimming is not so fun to do when it is with the same siblings you spend over 9 hours a day with. I almost begged the gardeners to come and play just to mix things up a bit.

3. Designed a creative space - The landing at the top of the stairs was a complete waste of space. It was ugly and made me cringe every time I had to look at it. Instead, I decided to make it a place of creativity and play. I painted, designed, and bought all the necessary items for the room to beacon my kids to write, paint, read or play. It was a creative feat for me because all the items were difficult to find. I spent a lot of time in the industrial area of Doha (during the 3 hours when they were actually open at night) , drawing ideas and making strange requests. Those poor men aren't used to thinking outside the box, let alone from a woman.

4. Made their rooms more exciting - Because we move so much I find that I get complacent with mess, disorganization and plain ugly. I love to design and after a while, it really starts to bug me. I would love to have a home that I could design on my own, but for every move, I find that I have to start from scratch again and it becomes frustrating and difficult. I typically give up. Since it looks like we will be spending some time in Qatar, I decided to make my kids' room for them. It should be a place that is personal and interesting. I started, but have a lot more to do.

5. Went to the gym - Since I was a teenager I have always maintained a workout schedule, but I have never needed it more than I did during this summer. I love the fact that I have a gym in my backyard, in my compound. Axel has started working out with me every morning and even my older two kids join along. Nothing makes me more happy than to see my kids run on a treadmill during the summer. Every minute that passes is an ounce of energy they are losing. Trust me, it matters when there is no where to go and nothing to do. I was looking for a human hamster ball, but the treadmill worked just fine.

Axel is looking pretty buff these days. I am proud of his turnaround. He keeps talking about taking 'gym shots' of us. I have been focusing on my abs and I've gotta say I can see some definition. Now that I am private, I may just consider slapping on some photos for my own amusement.

----

The summer days have passed and I have gone through the experience with my head still on (barely). There were definitely lessons learned: 1. We must find a home before the summer heat creeps upon us again. 2. Close trips are a must to remain sane. 3. Families can experience both extremes--incredible bonding and remarkable fighting--when put in the same home for hours upon hours. 4. The extremely fun and adventurous 10 months here are worth the summer pains.

Travelling with Kids

If I had to claim being an expert on one thing, I think traveling with kids would be it. Whether it was when I went to Panama with a 6 month old Heavah on my own, or flew to Dubai with a 3 and 4 year old while 8 months pregnant with Doha on my own, or flew from Nepal to SLC with a 6, 5, 2, and 1 year old baby, again, on my own, I think I have a slight grasp on what works and what doesn't. At least if I don't deserve the title of 'expert', I would like to think I at least deserve an honorable mention.

Here are some things I can share:

1. Pack lightly. The above picture was the beginning of our trip to France. Unlike my normal practice, I brought 2 carry ons, 2 check in bags and a stroller. I knew when we packed it was going to be TOO much luggage. As a result, during our trip in France we dumped one of the check in bags to narrow our luggage down to two carry ons and one check in. We also eventually dumped the stroller. I always limit myself to one check in. You can always buy what you need wherever you are going. Yes, even in India.

2. Plan for no entertainment on the plane. I can't count the number of times I have gone on an international flight (over minimum 11 hours) without entertainment. This is a recipe for disaster. Buy the playthings required to entertain small ones. This can be DVD players, play stations, all Apple products, etc. Never leave thinking the airline will keep them occupied.

3. Bring snacks. There is nothing worse than waiting for that meal that smells up the cabin for a hour before you actually get served. Don't depend on airplane food. It never comes when you want it, and it also comes when you don't want it. Keep a small supply for hungry kids.

4. Bring an extra set of clothing, for everyone. I can't tell you the number of times I have been spilled, puked, or peed on. Being drenched in puke for 9 hours on a plane wasn't the happiest time of my life. Make sure you bring clothing and wipes. It will save your life.

5. Try to take a night flight, if possible. Beginning a 25 hour travel session with fresh, awake children just means you are going to be very busy for a l-o-n-g time. Drowsy kids actually have the potential of knocking off, not the child that has just woken up from a 12 hour sleep.

6. Always know where your passport and money are. Everything else can be bought. You will have a hard time replacing these two items while stranded in Africa somewhere.

7. Dog tag your child. If you have runners, like I do, or even if you don't, it is likely you will misplace a child at some point. There is a lot of relief in knowing that if your child becomes lost, he/she can simply show the policeman or nice looking mother all the information required to find mom or dad. If you can't dog tag them, Sharpie them. The Amber Alert system is not international. It is your responsibility to find your child.

8. Make sure the trip has many moments for them. Don't drag kids from museum to museum. Give them opportunities to run, play, and have fun. Don't try to see everything. Just be thankful for what you can see and let go of the rest.

9. Have a handful of games ready in your mind. You can use the animal alphabet game, eye spy, or 12 guesses to keep them pre-occupated. Eye spy was the perfect game to play while cruising the Masai Mara in Kenya. It doesn't always work in an immigration line at 3 am in Jordan, but every well behaved minute counts!

10. Expect it to pay more. Sometimes you have to buy $7 for a bottle of water to keep everyone happy. With kids, you must try to fulfill the need instead of saving a few bucks. That might mean you stay in the nicer hotels and take taxis instead of the metro. Whatever will make it easier on you and the kids, pay the money and do it.

11. Don't stress about the rules. If you don't have the car seat in the taxi, it is okay. If your kid wants to lie down on the bathroom floor (yes, it has happened to me tooooo many times - even in Nepali bathrooms) it is okay. Let it happen. The experience is more important than doing it perfectly. Some things you may have to trade off. Let go of all the rules and let yourself enjoy the experience.

12. Have fun. One of my favorite quotes is this:

'Enjoy the anticipation,

Endure the experience,

and Cherish the memories'

Not all trips are a walk in the park. It takes work and can have its meltdown moments, but it is always worth it. The memories that you will build from such life changing experiences is something that will never be replaced.

The one bag rule never works when returning home. In fact, always anticipate buying a new piece of luggage for all your newly found treasures.

Van Gogh on a Whim

Leaving America was a slight disaster. For days, people kept asking us, 'When are you leaving?' With 100% confidence, I said, 'The 4th'. Family members questioned me, 'Are you sure?' And I would reply with conviction, 'of course'. It wasn't until the morning of the 4th when we looked at our itinerary that we noticed the flight we were booked left on the 3rd. SUCH a rookie mistake for someone like me. Imagine my shame.

Yes, sit and imagine. The sheer humiliation. The complete disbelief that I was indeed COMPLETELY WRONG.

Then, for a moment think of the deep horror I felt when after a number of phone calls we were told there was no way they were going to book us on another flight. Instead, we had to pay the money and buy completely brand new tickets.

Care to know how much it would cost to bring your family of 6 to Doha for a spontaneous visit?

$12, 000. one way.

Axel was ready to pull out the card, but I could NOT stomach the thought. It was my fault and I had to own it. The humble pie I ate was 3 months expired, moldy, and had bugs crawling on it. I couldn't eat all of it. I had to do something.

9 phone calls

5 times hung up on

8 hours later

Shezzam! Booked tickets back to Doha free. of. charge. And who says that there are no longer miracles?

The special treat out of all of it was that we came home with a layover in Amsterdam with just the right amount of time to visit the Van Gogh museum. I have been meaning to surprise Axel with tickets to the Netherlands for the soul purpose of going to this museum. After several hours of flying we hopped off the plane and took a taxi straight to the mecca.

The kids were fried and found a bed anywhere they could. The stinky, dirty, concrete blocks worked just fine. At least they were 3 feet off the ground. The homeless can't be choosy.

Axel beamed from ear to ear the entire time. It was his Disneyland. For example, this creepy, dark, slightly gnarly painting (shown above) was one of Axel's favorites because it is of the Potato Eaters. Van Gogh claimed this painting as his turning point for when he really came into his own. I don't quite see it, but there was a mini party going on in my heart for my hubby.

Because we were there so early, it felt like we were the only people in the entire museum. Only 30 minutes after we arrived, it started to fill up and you couldn't get nearly as close to the paintings as you wanted. Another plus for arriving early is that I got a ton of decent illegal photos. I must take photos in a No Photo zone. Even if I don't want to, I must.

Here is a recreation of the same room that Van Gogh painted in Arles. Sarita also painted a copy of this painting and it was so cute when the kids said, 'Hey! Sarita painted this room. How did they know?'

It is speculated that the painting to the right is Van Gogh's last painting. It has a very dark essence for some reason. The crows were unlike Van Gogh and the overall emotion from the painting is somewhat unlike his many other paintings.

The Almond Blossoms almost took my breath away when I saw it. After looking at Axel's copy next to my bed month after month it was incredible to see the real thing. It was different than I had expected. The colors were more muted and his brush strokes were smoother. I sat in front of it in awe. It was especially fun to see Axel, a great lover of all of Van Gogh's paintings, and see him well up with emotion with specific paintings that he had studied and stared at for hours. When we saw Van Gogh's Hay Stacks at Museo d'Orsay in Paris Axel had tears in his eyes. I wrestled with kids in the corner for several minutes while he shared a moment, silently, reading the lines, colors and brush strokes. There was no question, it was a spiritual moment for him that I am sure he will share at another time.

I really love all of Van Gogh's work during his Japanese phase. It showed he was intrigued by other cultural works and had affinity for the east. In true Van Gogh style, the colors are vibrant and bold, but his Japanese characters just plain sucked.

Axel will have loads more to say about the Van Gogh museum so I won't elaborate. When Axel is ready to share his latest creations, I will have him express his true feelings about visiting there and the Museo d'Orsay. Prepare yourself for some passionate words. The guy has been forever changed.