Friday, November 28, 2008

Bandha

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Let me tell you something I am not thankful for:

Along with electricity, water, and petrol problems in Nepal, the other inconvenience is bandhas (strikes). Nepal is the only country I know that has a strike a week. They will strike about anything from an accidental spill of coffee on a police officer to the cost of transportation.

The strikes occur in various areas throughout Kathmandu and the idea is to wreak havoc by setting fires and throwing stones. Whenever we hear there is a bandha we typically stay home. It always feels like house arrest; and yet, there are times that it seems so serendipitous it is actually fun.

However, yesterday was not one of those times. The worst situation is when you are not home and a bandha breaks out. Yesterday (Thanksgiving) I took the kids and my didi to the biggest grocery store in Nepal. We needed to pick up a few things for our Thanksgiving celebration, which was to be held the following day. The shopping was uneventful but the drive home was not. As we were about to make our 45 minute drive home we found obstacles at every turn.

bandha

Apparently, two young boys went missing in October and yesterday they were found dead with their skulls cracked. Instead of trying to investigate what really happened, a select number of people decided to have a bandha. It was unfortunate for us because the two boys were from our same neighbourhood. Therefore, it was the most dangerous area to enter. It was impossible to make it home. We went through narrow corridors, severely cracked dirt roads and even went through some of the old, preserved towns dotted with tourists. Every road that seemed to bring us home had a police officer there ready to turn us away.

Our 45 minute drive ended up being 3 hours. We considered going back to Axel's office and staying there until the bandha calmed down, but just as we considered this option, we finally found our way to a road that eventually lead us home.

In fact, on Axel's way home from work that night he was on his motorcycle and ended up a lot closer to the bandha than we did. When he got closer to the conflict, some of the bandha participants turned off his motorcycle and told him to get the hell out of there. As Axel was driving away, heavy stones were being thrown at him.

Sadly, none of this is unusual. Lately we have been experiencing one bandha a week. It makes it really difficult to plan things and the school frequently shuts down (thank goodness for homeschool) . In fact, when serious bandhas happen, the entire city shuts down. All the streets are empty and you can only see smoke clouds in the sky. Yesterday the bandha participants took over a city bus and torched it. This is pretty typical.

I wish the Nepali people could find better things to do with their time. But in the meanwhile, when I hear of a bandha, we will be sitting tight at home, enjoying the family time.

I suppose that is something I am thankful for.

7 comments:

Linsey said...

Yowzah! It is times like these when a nice suburban house in Ohio seems really appealing.

Sally said...

Great writing, I was on the edge of my seat! And I could relate. I've lived in Paris twice and both times experienced strikes with riot police everywhere and small fires just like the one in your top picture, but certainly less violent than what you described.

When I lived in Moscow, Russia, when I was 20, there was an attempted coup. I was visiting St Petersburg at the time and all the TV channels (there were only 3) went to this boring pastoral scene with classical music playing in the background. The Russians I was with panicked at that and explained that only happened when there was major political unrest.

I traveled back to Moscow that day by train, by myself (I can't believe I did that, with all the wisdom of a 20-yr-old) and there was no one on the streets but the sound of helicopters, gunfire and other explosions in the distance was pretty scary. When I got back to my flat I found a message from the embassy offering/suggesting an expedited return to the US because snipers were targeting foreigners. I stayed. The next day I went downtown to see the white house bombed, with smoke still coming from the windows, police everywhere, and ongoing gunfire. Then I went to McDonalds for lunch. It was a great scary experience for the younger me.

In my lifetime in the US, I've not experienced that kind of civic unrest. I know it's happened in here, particularly related to race relations, but I haven't experienced it personally here so it seems so shocking to experience it elsewhere.

Glad you made it home okay, and Axel too.

Sally said...

Oh my gosh! Sorry for the super long comment!

K said...

This is your distant relative (2nd cousin?), Kathryn. (Rose Bromley Hodson's granddaughter.)
Wendy was at Gram's house some months ago and brought some printouts of your blog, so I've been following it. It's nice to virtually get to know you guys, I hear about you from Grandma all the time, whenever your dad chats with her.

What a scary post. I had no idea that was going on over there. I hope you are all safe and that your Thanksgiving was wonderful.

McMornMum said...

That is so scarey.
It seems everywhere is 'kicking off'. The Embassy tries to keep us updated, but we ended up in the middle of 2 riots this weekend. I'm buying abayas and thobes today, just in case. Backpacks are on the list too, thank goodness for 72 hour packs. Have you worked out an escape plan, a 'Justin'? Maybe's I'm over reacting - I hope so.
Stay safe
Love
Jackie

terahreu said...

Linsey-I completely agree. There are times the risk is so high living overseas, as I am sure you can relate. But, then again, even in Ohio crazy things can happen. At least that is what I keep telling myself.

Sally - Wow, what a great story! These are the moments that really shape and test us. It is awesome that you got to experience something like that at such a young age. It is what toughens us up. Not so fun at the time, but a great dinner conversation! Thanks for sharing.

Kathryn- Nice to 'meet' you. I am also so glad you enjoy our blog. Your grandmother is the greatest woman ever. We love Rose. You will have to send her our love.

Jackie - Wow. You just never think of Bahrain as being unsafe. It certainly isn't like Dubai from the sounds of it. When are you going to get blogging??? I want to hear these stories and see your kids. We miss you guys!

OR better yet, get your butts on a plane and come see us!

Remi said...

That totally stinks! And on Thanksgiving! At least you had enough gas for a 3 hour trip! Although did it affect you the next day? And if Axel was getting rocks(!) thrown at him I'm extra appreciative that you and Kopila said I shouldn't risk the microbus! But really, that sounds like a much bigger bandha. And the 14 hours of no electricity finally hit? Bless you all.